Starting at the front, I brought the braided line out of the Wilwood caliper with a 1/8 NPT to -3 90 degree fitting. Because this is an open wheel car, I decided not to run the lines directly to the frame rails because I wanted them to blend in as much as possible. Short of wireless brake line technology that hasn't been approved by the NSRA yet, I felt this was the next best thing. Using a 9" braided line (as opposed to a regular brake line kit which is around 16") I dropped down to the tie rod. I could use such a short line because the only movement is in the very slight angle change of the tie rod and steering arm. In suspension travel, the flex line has to put up with a similar angle change, this time in a vertical arc. Again, it's peanuts compared to the angle change between the caliper and frame rail during a turn.

I machined clamps to hold the -3 joiner on to the bar and also machined the hex off the joiner fitting then centered it in the clamp. A set screw on the bottom of the clamp holds them to the bar.

Let's play "where's the brake line?"

I ran both sides to a T fitting under the drivers side frame rail, slightly offset to the engine side so it's harder to see as you walk up to the car. This is where the most flex will occur, because the tie rod is going back and forth under the rail.

The middle flex line goes back just behind the steering box where it meets up to the hard line. Instead of using a bulkhead type fitting to connect the lines, I drilled out a front panhard bar tab (from Welder Series of course!) to just under 7/16". With a bit of filing on the tab, the round part on a 3/16" fitting will press in to it, and hold securely. It can't come out because the hex is bigger than the round part of the fitting. If you have one in your hand, you'll see what I mean. A -3 joiner holds the other side of the tab.

Further back, we see the Wilwood 10# residual check valve in place, attached to the line with two -3 to 1/8NPT fittings. I used another panhard tab to hold the frame end of the braided line. Braided line is being used just in case we want to use a power booster some day. All we have to do is add the booster... no bending up new lines. It also makes it really easy to drop the master cylinder if we need to look inside it for some reason.

From the braided line going to the rear line, I attached the proportioning valve right to the residual check valve with a 1/8NPT to 1/8NPT joiner. The frame rail got tapped to hold the prop. valve. Yet another panhard tab holds the braided flex line coming from the rear drum. The other line goes along the rear crossmember to a flex line on the passenger side.

Here's the unwelded kit from Welder Series. Everything you need for less sway. The bar is 3/4" 4142 cold finished, heat treated steel, splined both ends. Bars are available from 18" to 36" long in 2" increments. A special kit is made for Model 'A' Ford frames that have been raised and narrowed in the rear section. There are splined couplers that you weld to the arms so you can actually preload the bar. Adjustable rod ends attach the bar to the axle housing.

Here's what I'm working with. The Welder Series sway bar I'll be installing mounts to the coilover bolts, so it's a good idea to give yourself some clearance. The other thing to keep in mind is the direction of the bolts... when the tank is installed, it will be a whole lot easier to slide the bolts out towards the front.

Attach the brackets to the coilover bolts, then hold the outer tube in position. The brackets have a radius in the bottom to match the tube, so they fit together real nice. This is when you'll center the tube in the frame rails, too. Mark where the brackets are on the tube or tack the brackets with your Dad holding the tube in place, as shown..

Here's the outer tube with the brackets welded on.

The couplers that are included in the kit should be welded with the set screw oriented so it's most convenient to adjust when the bar is installed. You should also grind a flat on the splines where the set screw will sit, and possibly even put a little divet in the bar with a drill so the arm doesn't slide off.

Tack the coupler to the arm with the sway bar installed, and make sure that both arms are parallel.

I've got the sway bar inserted in the outer tube, and the arm with the splined coupler on the splined sway bar. The bar is isolated by a urethane bushing in each end. I have mine pushed as close to the frame rail as I could get it. Different bar lengths are one way to change the amount of "anti-sway". A long bar will twist easier, and vice-versa. The other thing you can do to change the effectiveness is to fiddle with the arm length. This will change how many degrees of twist the sway bar is actually going through. You could do this by drilling some 3/8" holes along the arms and mounting the rod ends in different locations.

I've bolted the axle tabs to the arm using the supplied rod ends. Now just tack the tabs, do your finish welding, and you're all set! At ride height, it's a good idea to have the sway bar arm horizontal, and the rod ends vertical.

Here is the kit that's designed for a Model 'A'. Lowdown Hotrods did the install. As you can see, it's a really easy install.