I got some of Kugel's stainless line clamps. They come with stainless hardware too, which is a great thing. Keep reading... the wiring part is coming up.

I trimmed the ends off two clamps and welded them together on the inside so you can't see the weld. If you're wondering why there are only two hoses, I'll explain that in another article. I've run the heater hoses in a different place.

OK, this is where this article fits into the wiring category. I was going to attach the a/c hose clamps at the top and bottom like in the last picture. Then I started to not like the hole on the bottom and tried to think of a way not to use it. I knew I still wanted to do something to cover the wires going to the headlights, so this seemed like a good line to follow. The stainless line that's now welded to the clamp will hold the wires, as well as the bottom portion of the clamp. By welding a mounting tab to the tube (pointing up), I will be able to attach the tube assembly to the frame rail, and the hoses will hide the bolt head. 

You can see the tab in between the clamps. Now that I'm looking at this, I'm going to change a few things. I'm serious - this was completely spontaneous. I was going to run the transmission cooler along these clamps too, but I think I can clean it up a bit still. Stay tuned!

I had the headlight wires along the bottom of the a/c hose brackets, but when I thought of running the tranny cooler lines along the same way, everything was getting too wrapped up. So I cut the wiring tube off the bottom, moved it to the top, and bent a tranny cooler line for the bottom. The cooler return line will weld to the Kugel brackets right beside the bottom line.

To mount this unit, I'll weld a stainless tab across the two tubes and bolt to the frame rail through that tab. That way, the a/c hoses will cover the bolt heads. And now you know..... the rest of the story.

Hey, look... Welder Series parts! These are #21836 stainless flanges for 2-1/2" tubing. The flange just slips over the tube - that's great but the stainless Edelbrock mufflers we're using are expanded to slip over the tube! I'm going to weld a flange to one side of each muffler. It's a good idea to plan the system like this before hand... where it's going to separate, etc.

This is why it's nice to have the flange slip over the tube - you can tig weld it on the inside and therefore don't see anything on the outside!

Silent Moment of the Day #2: parting off the collector in the lathe. I don't know why, but when something's not round, it tends to look like it's spinning a lot faster and more violently. I did this to tuck the first bend up about 2".

Producer Paul and Director Dorothy check out the progress.

If you have a mill handy, it's a great way to square up the ends of the tubing.

Here's the shortened collector in place. I needed a small wedge to point the bend where I needed it to go. In this picture, you can also see my ground cable running from a motor mount bolt to the insulator bolt. I've run the rest of Ron Francis' grounding kit, and there's basically nothing grounded to the frame except headlights. I'm grounded direct to the starter from the battery. 

Here, we're trying to achieve symmetry as much as possible. The first side is always the easy one! Now I know why some guys run single 3"..... In this picture, you can see a few things that will sneak up on you: the angle of the bottom of the engine oil pan is tilted towards the drain, and the transmission pan is offset. 

It took a bit of muscle to flip the car on to its side for this shot, but I hope you'll agree it was worth it. We haven't installed hangers yet, but they will go just in front of the flange at the muffler. This way, we can remove the rear section and the hangers will still support the front section. 

Unless you're one of the few 2' tall street rodders, you'll have a hard time seeing this exhaust.
Next update, I'll show you where we ran the outlets.