You'll have to start with your doors hung and latched. To determine the size of the gap, I used what I've been telling people to use for years, but never had the opportunity to do it myself: playdough. Do I have to put a letter C in a circle after that word? Actually, I didn't use playdough. I used Sticky Tack. Man, what's the generic word for stuff that's pliable and somewhat sticky and holds posters to the wall? From now on, it shall be called "Silly Putty". Oh, never mind.

Roll the Nameless Wonder-Goop Door Gap Replicator (don't worry, I don't require a Registered Trademark symbol) into a ball, and set it in the place you want to measure. 

Close the door all the way.

When you open the door, you'll be left with a positive mold of the door gap that you can use to see which weatherstrip profile will work best.

I got one of Soffseal's sample packs and compared each sample with my Nameless Wonder-Goop Door Gap Replicator. 

It turns out I was able to use one of their smallest profiles on both the door and the body. I like this, because I have weatherstrip sealing against weatherstrip. This profile fit the edge around the door opening perfectly.

In this picture, you're also able to see the courtesy light I installed in the bottom of the door. At night, it will illuminate the ground as you're getting out of the car. You never know what will be waiting in the hotel parking lot.

I made up these little spacers for the wiper posts, then painted them black.

Here you can see my heater lines. I decided not to run #10 heater hose just because of the size of the car. A #10 hose has a 1/2" i.d., so by running 3/8" hard line, I'm not losing all that much flow. I'm using the head as one connection, and the water pump for the other. The hose clamp on the hose going to the water pump will be replaced and eventually will look like the one just below it. Remember to flare the end of the hard line so it's tight in the hose. I'm also trying to figure out where to run the spark plug wires.

I made up two 3/8" double clamps to hold the e-brake cables.

Here you can see the Specialty Power Windows wiper motor that's mounted to the steering column mounting plate.

I couldn't exactly hide the A/C drain behind the upholstery (because what you see is the "upholstery"), so I had to come up with another way. I decided to use the leftover trunk weatherstrip I had. It's hollow, flexible, and has an adhesive back. It's not stuck to the firewall yet, but when I'm ready I can just peel off a few small sections of backing and hold it in place.

And here's where we are, pretty much up to date.

Well, the body is off and it's time to start welding up brackets and tabs that were just tacked in place this whole time. The plan is to get the frame powder coated semi gloss black, and since it's not healthy to weld over powder coat, I'm going to try to get all the brackets mounted before it's sent out. I still need to mount the Welder Series exhaust hangers...

It's a good idea to take a bunch of pictures of everything assembled before you tear it down, so you can see how it all went together.

Remember that e-brake bracket I made a long time ago? I just painted it with Zero Rust flat black paint, and I'm pretty tickled with how it came out. I can't wait to see it installed!

Since I didn't mount the seat belts when the seat was mounted the first time, I had to make up some brackets to hold the retractors and the fixed end of the belts. If you're like me and you have access to hundreds of different shapes of brackets, you tend to use something that's already made instead of wasting time cutting out a shape (and trying to get the second one to look something like the first one), drilling holes, bending, etc. If you're like me but don't have access to hundreds of different brackets, here's a solution: Welder Series' Plate Page. Have a look around. I'm sure you'll find something that will make your frame build a lot easier. These particular brackets are Model A rad mount tabs.