Starting with two stainless dished washers, I hammered them flat and welded them together around the perimeter. This made them about the same thickness as the bracket I wanted to pillage and use for its 3/8″ hole.

This is the bracket I started out with.

I trimmed the slot off and merged the washers with the 90 degree bracket.

It sits pretty much in line with the engine dipstick now…

I finished the front spreader bar the same way as the rear to mount the license plate.

Rollie starts by blowing up the logo to actual size, then he transfers it to some parchment paper. Actually, I think it’s something like tissue paper. Or maybe it’s called transfer paper.

He tapes the transfer paper (if that’s really what it’s called) to the door, then uses a top secret type of another kind of paper and a top secret transfer tool to transfer the lines to the work surface.

I know, it looks like he used a scriber to etch the lines into the door, but I assure you he did not. The blue tape is to make sure the top and bottom of each letter is in line with its neighbor.

WEI…RD?

Phew, he spelled it right! Rollie painted a tig bead down the middle of the word!

If I painted it, the passenger door would probably say “REDLEW SEIRES”

Rocket Rollie stripes so fast someone should write a song about it!

I love the website font – Rollie said every striper has their own way of doing things, and even his kids can pick their dad’s letters out from other stripers.

Rollie added some lines to make the letters pop, as well as some orange and yellow highlights.

Thanks Rollie!

On the Bear body, an option was to have the windshield frame as a part of the body. Some bodies we’ve seen have the frame airbrushed to look like chrome, but I think we’ll leave it black. The glass installs from inside the car, with a garnish molding finishing it off.

Once the back glass was installed (again from the inside, with a trim piece supplied by Bear), Pete taped around the glass and the body, then squished a urethane (I think) in the gap to finish it off. After smoothing it with his finger, when the tape was pulled off it looked terrific!

The door glass was a bit of a hairy situation to install… we had to pry the door apart while Pete pushed the glass in. It would only go in one way, and to get the last few inches of the corner in, it was almost a “ok, here goes….. woo hoo!” But both windows did get installed without cracking, so there’s no problem. I tried to hide the Specialty Power Windows kit by using countersunk screws around the lip of the access panel to hold the window channel.

Power windows? Really?  The switches are in the overhead console, behind the rearview mirror.

Maybe I should have cut the defrost duct slots before the windshield was installed… my only issue was the thickness of the glass. I was pretty sure I took that into account when I marked the slots, but I wasn’t 100% positive so I waited. Oh well, it turned out ok. I taped a piece of cardboard against the glass to protect it from the cutoff wheel.

How’s this for accessible! This is in the process of hooking up the ducts for defrost and the ones in the dash. If you were wondering why the duct on the left (and the one on the right, but it’s covered by the speedometer) have the front trimmed out, it’s because the duct hose needs to come forward immediately out of the duct, and then straight down. Trimming the outlet like this lets more air through the hose when it’s bent 180 degrees.

The heater flow valve is pretty much in the confines of the unit – I didn’t have to figure out where else it would go.