Header__ARTICLEShorter n760900331_102398_754
line12

DW Horton, with his Daughter Lily

Part 3
Mounting The Body

Where did this body come from? This project started out as a roadster! My Dad & Mom have been running around in a '40 Ford Tudor since the mid-'80's, when they had my brother and me to take with them. Now my brother lives in Knoxville, 14 hours from them. I'm married and Sarah and I have two daughters. We live a quarter mile from their business, where they keep the '40. My Dad figured it made more sense to build a coupe (instead of a roadster) for him and Mom, and then Sarah & I can drive the '40. What a guy!!

Mounting the Body 1

Mounting the Body 2

art3a
art3b

Remember the '70s? Since the body comes with only the front and rear holes drilled (nice, because often the body and frame holes don't line up anyway). Here we're just getting an idea of approximately where the body mount holes are.

That's better. Now we will raise the body up, and put tape under the floor along the inside of the rails. This will tell us the location of the rails relative to the body. Notice the Welder Series hiboy front 4-bar kit, which brings the bars all the way back to the cowl line. It's a little detail, but it makes a huge visual difference.

Mounting the Body 3

Mounting the Body 4

art3c
art3de

Here we have the inside of the frame rails marked on the bottom of the body. We will lift the body up and put a few lines of tape outside of this line, so that we'll be able to mark the holes with a pen.

While the body is up, we marked the inside of the frame rails with the location of the holes. Put a straight edge along the centerline, and use that to both measure the center-to-center dimension, and mark the location on the tape.

Mounting the Body 5

Mounting the Body 6

art3f
art3g

An action shot of marking the hole center on the inside of the frame. Also at this time, measure from the inside of the rail to the center of the hole. Mark this on the tape. It doesn't matter how far apart the holes are side-to-side- we established that dimension by putting tape on the bottom of the body along the rails.

We put the body back on the frame, and clamped it in place so that it didn't move.

Mounting the Body 7

Mounting the Body 8

art3h
art3i

We marked a line along the bottom of the body where the inside of the rail is, and marked the location of the hole. Now we can take the body off again and measure out the same distance as the center of the hole. Remember to mark this number on the bottom of the body to make it easier.

We put a chalkline from mark-to-mark. Now we will measure out 1-3/8" (for this hole) which SHOULD be the center of the hole.

Mounting the Body 9

Mounting the Body 10

art3j
art3k

Another action shot! We are drilling pilot holes from the bottom, then we'll drill the full-size holes from above.

With the body clamped in place once again, we can drill through the pilot holes. We will go all the way through the body, and try to mark the frame (hopefully right in the center of the hole!) with the drill bit. "Officer, I couldn't have been doing 95! My gauge never moved!" Pay no attention to the paper instruments- something else is planned...

Mounting the Body 11

Mounting the Body 12

art3l
art3m

I think the Stones said it best: "You can't always get what you want". So we're a little off. It could have been that we didn't drill through the body at a perfect perpendicular. We'll hang the excuse sheet on the window. The rainbow behind the clouds is the 3/8" plates we welded behind the holes before we boxed the rails. That way, it doesn't really matter if the hole in the body isn't directly above the hole in the frame- I outlined about where the plate is.

Some filing had to be done after all the body holes were drilled, so the bolts would go in smoothly.

Part 4
Taillight Installation

Taillight Selection and Installation
It took a while, but we finally decided which taillights we're going to use. You may not like them. This isn't your car. This is our car. There are so many different taillights on the market now- for traditional there's the '38/9 Ford "teardrop" lights, the '42-'48 Ford lights, the '37 Ford bullet shaped lights, and then there's '50 Pontiac lights. The new ones have a shorter bucket, a glass lens, and the bulb is centered for optimal visibility. Safety is highest on our list of priorities for building this car, along with keeping a common theme. LED taillights, for instance, would not suit this car. '39 Ford lights don't fit well below the deck lid on a coupe without cutting into the bottom body line. Plus, we think the Pontiac lights look darn good. Here's how we installed them.

Selecting a Location

Mounting Hole Location

art4a
art4b

Once we decided what taillights to use, we had to decide how far out from the center to mount them. We thought that mounting them too far 'in' would make the car look thin and tall. There was only so far that we could go 'out' before the body curves too much and they would appear the opposite of cross-eyed. The resting spot was decided- in line with the outside edges of the rear window frame. We also needed to center them top-to-bottom. This was done by applying masking tape to the approximate area the taillights would end up in, and then measuring from the trunk lip to the top of the rear body line. We "eyeballed" the light, trying to get it as close to an imaginary line straight down from the outside edge of the rear window. When it looked right, we measured over from the side of the trunk and repeated that dimension on the passenger side. The long horizontal line is so that the mounting holes can be on the same line.

Here I'm measuring the mounting hole position. You'll want to do this before you drill the hole for the light so you still have a center. We used a meter (or yard) stick to draw the horizontal line - it conforms to the curve of the body.

 

 

art4c
art4d

The moment of truth. Did I do it right? Tune in next week to find out! Or just look at the next picture.

The Finished Product

 

 

art4e

 

Looks pretty good to me. The lights make it look nice and low.

 

line12
[Home Page] [2007 Shows] [Barn & Field Cars] [Blast to the Past] [Book Reviews] [Build Articles] [Buyers Guide] [Classifieds] [Club Directory] [Event Listings] [From our Friends] [Garage Shots] [Guest Columnists] [Hotrod MD] [New Products] [Newsletter Archive] [Order a Catalog] [Our Heroes] [Press Releases] [Rodders Forum] [Rodders Row] [Shop Tours] [Vendors Directory] [Advertising Info] [Young Rodders] [Modern Rods] [Site Map]
mail

Copyright 1999 - 2007 Hot Rod Hot Line All Rights Reserved
No Portion May Be Used Without Our Written Permission
Contact Us Toll Free (877) 700-2468 or (208) 562-0470
230 S. Cole Rd, Boise, ID 83709