We will be using a Vintage Air Gen II Compac system. It's 9" tall, 7-3/4" deep, and 20-1/2" long. It's got servo motors to give us a TRUE bi-level function, too. Vintage Air has these neat mock-up units which are exact shells of the functioning unit, with all mounting points in the same spots, and all the ducts and stuff in the exact locations. They make it much easier to install because you don't have to keep hoisting the actual unit into position each time you check fitment. Also, there is no risk of dropping it!

This is a picture looking up from the floor at the inside of the firewall. I have put masking tape about where my mounting holes are, then I made a mark on the tape while holding the unit in place. I will be using the car builder's secret weapon: not duct tape (although that's a good weapon too)... knife inserts. I think that's what they're called.

The Bear body has a neat lip on the top of the inside firewall panel that I can rest the evaporator on. It also shoves it way up under the dash so you can barely see it.

Knife Inserts. I think that's what they're called. You can get them at your local hardware store. I got these at Home Depot. If someone knows the actual name of them, please email me. Even if you just like the fact that I call them knife inserts, please email me. I'm also married.

There's the little guy, screwed into the firewall. No bolts showing on the outside! That's the Specialty Power Windows wiper motor, mounted to the steering column support plate.

Who has air conditioning???

ok, ok... I do.
 

If you ever decide to put the ducts right in front of the evaporator like I did, this is going to be necessary. There isn't enough room to come straight down from the top of the evaporator and then go 90 degrees into the duct, so I trimmed it so the hose had an easier route. I'm nice. You'll want to leave two tabs at the bottom for connecting the hose.

Because I cut off one of the hose tabs, I had to make another one. I got out the propane torch, threw a bit of heat to the back side of the duct, and with a screwdriver pried it up so it formed a tab worthy of holding the hose in place.

That's all you need.

This is the kit we'll be using to protect the occupants: it's the Rocky Hinge manual kit. They also have one that's controlled with an actuator. It's so easy to install, even if you lose their excellent instructions. What I like about it is all the dimensions are "major" fractions. You won't have to worry about whether you're counting 32nds or 64ths; all the dimensions you need to know are either 1/2", 1-1/2", etc. It comes with led lights and a built in switch that will tell you when the pin is either in or out.

I decided to put it in the middle of the door because I was afraid the latch would get kicked if it was down near the floor. This way, it's in line with the door pin too. Just slab some masking tape on there, and drill some holes.

To find the location of the hole that needs to be in the door, I put some tape around where I thought it would be. I mounted the unit, closed the door, and drove the pin against the door a few times to mark the tape. I decided to put the main unit in the kick panel for one major reason: if it's accidentally switched when the door is open, the pin won't hit the outside of the car.

The knob comes in a brushed aluminum finish, but I painted it black to blend in. The stainless bolts are standard.

I ground a flat where the set screw in the knob tightens on the shaft so it was oriented to be pointing towards the door when it's locked.

We've liked this headlight/ shock mount combo from Pete & Jakes for a long time. We didn't think about installing another bracket, because we like the curves and gracefulness. A stock '32 headlight (the big one) has the mounting bolt coming out of the bottom at an angle of about 30 degrees towards the back. This means that when the bracket is mounted to the frame, the headlight mounting cone has to be tilted forwards at the same angle. Pete & Jakes designed the bracket to be mounted perpendicular to the ground at ride height. I held it up there, and thought I'd like it tilted back a bit, to match the caster of the axle (about 6 degrees). What I didn't realize I was doing was bringing the angle of the cone more towards horizontal, and when the headlights are mounted, they're more effective as airplane landing lights. I tried to modify them to work, but came up with an easier idea. The brackets are also designed to mount perpendicular off the frame rail. Because our frame is pinched, and because I'm kind of a sucker for details, I decided to trim a bit off the back side of the tube so the bracket mounts parallel to the axle (perpendicular to the centerline of the frame). Also, because we have the front c-notched, the bracket wouldn't go on the back side of the shock because it was right over the c-notch. All that means is that the headlights will be an inch or two ahead of where Pete & Jake meant them to be, which means there may be some tire interference.
So, all that said, these are still great looking brackets. I'd use them again. I didn't use them as intended, so I spent more time making them work.

Instead of grinding, grinding, grinding, I ordered two new cones from Pete & Jakes and lopped off the old ones. With the die grinder, I notched the end to accept the tapered, angled radius of the cone. I had to keep in mind that the headlight bolt couldn't interfere with the shock which would be mounted right behind.

I know it looks screwed up. But I tacked the cone with it welded to the headlight, so I knew it was at the right angle. In this picture you can also see how much the front end needs to come down - the shock is set at ride height. Since we're using the short shocks, and the shock mount bracket can't come down any further on the frame, we're going to have to figure out some other way of lowering the front end. I guess we COULD use regular shocks, but the shorties look so much... shorter. And I've never complained about having to go lower.

We have these monster 12" long 5/8" bolts around that I used to set up the other cone to the same angle as the first one.

While holding the bolt with one hand, and tacking with the other, I got it close and then tweaked them to match. You could use a threaded rod for the same effect.

It worked.

They'll look lower when they're off the lift. Before you finish weld anything, make sure that you can turn your wheels both ways!