Mocking the mirror
Resembling a scene from The Jungle Book, my mirror hangs precariously on the side of the door supported only by a few thin strands of masking tape. I'm using cowl mirrors from a '40 Ford made by Bob Drake, minus the cowl attachment piece. They're quite swoopy and I think will match nicely with the door handles.

They have a very nice contoured arm that comes to a perfect point at the back. There are no screws in the head (we can all attest to that joy) so it's nice and clean.
Make sure you sit in the seat you're going to use so that you know you'll be able to see well. There's nothing worse than having side mirrors that are completely useless.

There are two studs on either side of the threaded hole, which I'm sure will keep it from swiveling.

I transfered the holes to the door by pressing the studs and threaded hole onto a piece of paper, making indents. All I had to do then was make sure it was level (or straight with the body line) and drill the holes!

You can see a very slight bend on the horizontal section of tube. Basically, I wanted to give it some shape so it wasn't straight.

The little stainless piece in the back of the headlight is a piece from the Parr headlight conduit kit. It comes with some braided hose, and two of each frame fittings and headlight fittings. I machined a shoulder on the headlight fittings and drilled them 3/8" all the way through. There are six wires in a '32 headlight with turn signals, which *just* won't fit in a 3/8" tube. I took the ground from the turn signal and bolted it to the inside of the light, which is bolted to the frame. Five wires fit very snugly inside the tube, but they do fit.

Booster or No Booster?
If you can't decide whether to run power brakes or not, or if you just want to experiment like we did, just run braided lines to the master clinder from the frame. It's a heck of a lot easier to lower the master cylinder - you don't have to open the system to check levels. Just unbolt the master and presto wammo, your cylinder is as free as a duck without a leg tag.

I machined the piece with the set screws from mild steel, and the spring plate from aluminum. I imagined that I'd be able to tighten the set screws tighter in steel. The shoulder on the left side in the picture is for my brake light switch which I mounted underneath the master cylinder bracket. The shoulder on the right side is to hold the spring.

When I push on the brake pedal, the aluminum plate comes away from the brake light switch, thus turning on the lights. I also shortened the 3/8" plunger rod and welded it to the end of the bar. It's just a bit cleaner, since the bar goes right to the plunger.