I was hoping to use only two u-joints for this car, but after mocking it up and finding that the shaft is too close to the header, it'll have to be three. I played around (see the next few pictures) with extending the input shaft on the Mullins box, but all that did was increase the angle on the lower u-joint. We're using all aluminum joints and shafts from Borgeson. These are amazingly light! I forecast a 2hp gain over steel systems. Just joking.

Now I had to decide where I wanted the shaft to sit in relation to the frame. Since it's going to be an open hood car, I decided to tuck the steering in behind the header a bit. I think it will be less noticeable than bringing it right over to the frame rail from the column. We'll see... you decide.

Making the Rod End Support

Since I'm using three joints, a support bearing (or Rod End) is a necessity. Measure from the rail to the center of the shaft where you want the bearing. I'm going to put it right beside the center u-joint, to hide the splines I was left with on the lower shaft. If you're forced to use a three joint system, buy the joints you'll need, then use a broom handle or some 3/4" dowel to mock up the shaft lengths. Or, you can use a double 'D' shaft which you buy in either 18" or 36" lengths, and cut it to fit. The splined shafts come in 2" increments from 4 " to longer than you'll ever need.

I didn't want any threads showing on the rod end when it was installed, so I had to do some measuring. I needed to know how long the mounting tube I was going to make should be in order to cover all the threads and keep the steering shaft where I wanted it. So, I measured from the frame to the near side of the shaft, and added 3/8" to get a dimension to the center. Then I measured from the center of the rod end bearing to the end of the threads so I knew if I had to trim any of the threads off. Conveniently, I didn't. Next, I measured from the nut to where I knew the frame was based on my first measurement. Make sure you measure to the far side of any angle. Next, put a 1" tube in your lathe and cut 3/4-16 threads!

The rod end couldn't come straight off the frame because the angle was too much for the bearing. So I just ground a corner off the tube, and it will be welded to the frame

Oh yeah, I got the rad shell and the grille insert installed. The front end will be down about 1-1/2" or 2", so don't you worry about a thing.

The Bear body has some neat compartments in the trunk with access panels attached with machine screws into metal inserts. We will be putting a lot of things in the trunk - sub, amp, CD player, CD changer, battery, air ride compressor, air ride tank, valves, and probably more things that I'm not thinking about. Also, we won't be carrying a 2x3 hardwood beam to rod runs to hold up the deck lid - a support will be installed in the near future.

We got all Clarion sound equipment, and it arrived the day after we ordered it! (Clarion APX640.4 Amplifier, DCZ625 CD changer, DXZ655MP CD player, and a PXW1041 Sub). A sealed sub box was bought from an automotive stereo shop. It is designed to sit behind the seat in a truck, but I figured it would work great in this application too. The manual says not to mount anything to the box, but a friend in the know said it isn't a big deal. So, because of limited space and the fact that The Testament on CD and Gordon Lightfoot will probably be the closest thing to heavy bass my dad will listen to, I'll be mounting pretty much everything to the box. I cut a piece of plywood to the shape of the floor of the space and Vette Panel Bonded it to the floor. The LizardSkin insulation had to be removed in the areas I was slopping the panel bond. I also had to move the wire connection block from the center of the box to the lower corner because of the depth of the magnet and because I was putting the amp on the back of the box.

Here's the plywood piece I put from the wheel well to the front of the compartment which holds the compressor, tank, and valves. Do not put the panel bond on any outside surface - it will eventually show through and you'll never be able to get rid of it.

An Optima yellow-top battery will be used. I'm mounting it through the base of the battery with four bolts into special inserts threaded into the wood.

The CD player and changer will need to be accessible even when the back panel is installed, and there is luggage in the trunk. The changer won't play mp3 files or wma, but the deck will. So, we will be able to listen to six regular CDs plus one assorted CD. The box is attached to the wood with the same inserts as the battery. If you're wondering how we're going to change tracks and adjust the volume, I'll tell you. We'll simply pull over under a bridge, open the trunk, unload the luggage, take out the six machine screws holding the back panel in place, then turn the knob or change to the next CD. Simple, eh? I have a better idea. There will be a hidden "eye" somewhere in the dash (see if you can find it before the car is done... it'll be fun!) that will send a signal along a wire to an LED transmitter that will be pointed to the CD player. So we will be able to perform all the functions that we'll need to perform minus changing sound levels and fade, etc. from a remote inside the car, without a CD player to look at all the time. The dash will be nice and clean. A removable access panel will be added right in front of the CD player and changer so that we can change settings and CDs easily. But I'm sure 7 CDs can outlast a 60 year old bladder.

These bulkheads from Air Ride Technologies will allow us to run the air through the trunk floor, keeping the lines between the floor and the access panel.

This is looking up at the bulkhead from under the car. It's a good thing we got that Backyard Buddy lift - I would have had to actually crawl under the car to take this picture!

That's all there is to it... run the lines from the solenoids to the bulkheads, and nobody will ever know.

I've got the solenoids mounted upside-down on the same piece of wood that the tank and compressor are on. It would have been wise to have mounted it before I installed the wood panel, but who doesn't envy a contortionist once in a while? All six feet two inches of me that was twisted like a shamois doesn't. That's Vette Panel Adhesive holding the wood to the 'glass. That stuff is amazing!