I cut out the exact OUTER DIMENSION of the bezels of the instruments as well as the biggest dimension for all the other gadgets. It's very important to calculate your space based on the bezel diameter, not the mounting hole size. See the big square on the right? That's the wiper switch. There's a big box on the back side that takes up space, so I couldn't lay out the knobs right next to each other or there would be interference.

No, I'm not moving them to the top of the dash. Once again, I used some masking tape to lay out where the holes would be.

The paper layouts were oriented by hand, so I had to convert "eye" measurements to "measuring tape" measurements. I ran a strip of tape along the very bottom of my paper templates, so I knew where the bottoms where. At the bottom of one gauge, I marked the center. Now I have a home base.

This handy ruler was given to me by Zac at Classic. It has all the bezel dimensions as well as all the mounting hole sizes for all their instruments. I had to keep remembering that I was laying out the outer dimension of the bezel, not the mounting hole. I thought 5/16" would be a good amount to put between the bezels. So, from the first centerline mark, I was able to go out half the bezel O.D. each way. Then, 5/16" more and I could start the next dimension. Mark the center of the gauge so you know where to drill. If you're wondering how I got the centerline level, then I must be pretty good. Write me an email if you still don't get it.

Sha-WING! White Hot series, curved glass, radial bezel. There's a tach too

Oh No! Two extra holes! I hope my dad doesn't see this!

Phew, good thing Classic makes a 2" tach and a matching air ride pressure gauge.

Since the tach is a little deeper than the other gauges, I put it in the middle of the panel. The gauges come complete with senders and neat little aluminum mounting brackets with nuts. The other nice thing about the removable panel is that it's removable, which has obvious advantages.

"ok, tower, request permission to land. over." I like it.

Having all the tools at hand, I grabbed a bigger hole saw and cut out the hole for the speedometer. I laid out the hole location in the same way. We decided to place the heat/cool vents beside the speedo for consistency and they will be at the proper height for blowing cold air at your chest.

Please email with your comments - I think I've only got one email, from someone asking if I'm related to Tim, and if this is the Official DonutMobile.

Hey! Look out for that '40!

Since it's pretty obvious what needs to be done to make the tank fit (try sliding it in. If it's not fitting, trim something.), I'll just show some pictures to confirm that it's done.

Even though the rear spreader bar will cover the back side of the tank flange, I decided that my faithful readers would be disappointed if I left the flange alone. So, I trimmed it along the weld except on the passenger side where the weld doesn't match the driver's side. I'm happy with the gap between the body and the top of the tank.

I needed to trim the rails a bit as well as the flange. I have used 3/8 button head bolts, with weld nuts welded underneath the rail. We will be switching to stainless button heads for the final install. We won't be using anything between the tank and the frame rails... we're not expecting it to move enough to be a problem.

If everyone's tank fit like this, the world would be a better place. We're using a TANKS tank, part number 32-ZS. It has rounded corners like a stock tank and uses a stock-style twist-on cap.