Here's the unwelded kit from Welder Series. Everything you need for less sway. The bar is 3/4" 4142 cold finished, heat treated steel, splined both ends. Bars are available from 18" to 36" long in 2" increments. A special kit is made for Model 'A' Ford frames that have been raised and narrowed in the rear section. There are splined couplers that you weld to the arms so you can actually preload the bar. Adjustable rod ends attach the bar to the axle housing.

Here's what I'm working with. The Welder Series sway bar I'll be installing mounts to the coilover bolts, so it's a good idea to give yourself some clearance. The other thing to keep in mind is the direction of the bolts... when the tank is installed, it will be a whole lot easier to slide the bolts out towards the front.

Attach the brackets to the coilover bolts, then hold the outer tube in position. The brackets have a radius in the bottom to match the tube, so they fit together real nice. This is when you'll center the tube in the frame rails, too. Mark where the brackets are on the tube or tack the brackets with your Dad holding the tube in place, as shown..

Here's the outer tube with the brackets welded on.

The couplers that are included in the kit should be welded with the set screw oriented so it's most convenient to adjust when the bar is installed. You should also grind a flat on the splines where the set screw will sit, and possibly even put a little divet in the bar with a drill so the arm doesn't slide off.

Tack the coupler to the arm with the sway bar installed, and make sure that both arms are parallel.

I've got the sway bar inserted in the outer tube, and the arm with the splined coupler on the splined sway bar. The bar is isolated by a urethane bushing in each end. I have mine pushed as close to the frame rail as I could get it. Different bar lengths are one way to change the amount of "anti-sway". A long bar will twist easier, and vice-versa. The other thing you can do to change the effectiveness is to fiddle with the arm length. This will change how many degrees of twist the sway bar is actually going through. You could do this by drilling some 3/8" holes along the arms and mounting the rod ends in different locations.

I've bolted the axle tabs to the arm using the supplied rod ends. Now just tack the tabs, do your finish welding, and you're all set! At ride height, it's a good idea to have the sway bar arm horizontal, and the rod ends vertical.

Here is the kit that's designed for a Model 'A'. Lowdown Hotrods did the install. As you can see, it's a really easy install.

I had the headlight wires along the bottom of the a/c hose brackets, but when I thought of running the tranny cooler lines along the same way, everything was getting too wrapped up. So I cut the wiring tube off the bottom, moved it to the top, and bent a tranny cooler line for the bottom. The cooler return line will weld to the Kugel brackets right beside the bottom line.

To mount this unit, I'll weld a stainless tab across the two tubes and bolt to the frame rail through that tab. That way, the a/c hoses will cover the bolt heads. And now you know..... the rest of the story.

On the right, you can see the stock bolts that came with the brake kit. While functional, they didn't do much to enhance the chrome spindles and steering arms and the polished calipers and caliper mounts. Since the caliper mounting bolts are 3/8" button heads, I thought I'd see what I could do to match the other bolts.

The black bolt is the original one. It's a flat head allen, with 1/2-20 threads. The stainless bolt is a 3/8-16 button head, but it's obviously too small for the hole. I machined threaded spacers to sit tight in the 1/2" hole in the spindle. The threaded cone mimics the taper on the original bolt, so it centers itself and sits flush with the outside of the caliper mounting plate. There's not much clearance between the plate and the rotor!

I took this photo before I trimmed the excess off the bolt - it's flush now.

Here's how the tranny cooler lines/ air conditioning hose clamp came out. The top tube runs headlight wires from the body to the grille shell.

For the ends of the stainless tube, I parted a -6 stainless joiner fitting in half, and tig welded them to the tubes. Leaving some hex on the fittings means I don't have to twist the tube to tighten the fitting.

We had the one side fixed, and now it's time to match the passenger side. Cam seems to be pretty happy we're finally mounting the tail pipes!

The emergency brake lines run right where the hangers would sit straight up. Instead of just moving it off to the side a little bit, we thought it would be better to go all the way. The hanger brackets and flanges are Welder Series parts, by the way.

I think we're going to keep the tips just as they are for now... milled perfectly square. We'll see - maybe they will get some turn-downs later.

I used a stainless clutch pedal pad bracket for the 3/8" hole to hold my fuel line to the back of the head.

If you're comfortable enough with your welding skills, go ahead and weld it to the line!

"Yeah, I have a 31" die for 3/8" hard line"

In fact, everyone does - use the grooves on your tire to hold the line, then gently persuade it around the circumference. The rubber will give a little bit so the tube won't buckle unless you really haul on it.

Using a short water pump on a ZZ4

About rough assembly
with urethane bushings

To use a short water pump on a ZZ4 engine, you will have to relieve (read "grind") some points on it so that it will clear the plastic timing cover.

When you're putting stuff together that uses urethane bushings, only put one half of the bushing in. It will hold the inner sleeve, and it will be a heck of a lot easier to remove when it's time to paint.

Brake line tabs

I used these little front panhard tabs (Welder Series part #219445) to hold the front section of my rear flex lines. I drilled them out to one little size smaller than 7/16", which is a press-fit for the -3 end of the hose. This way I don't have to use those clips and a bulkhead fitting. I've got a -3 joiner between the hard line and the flex line.