Rodders Forum

Rodders Forum and Rodders Helping Rodders

We Get So Many Requests for Help and Information From Our Visitors That We Decided to Give You Your Own Page. So If You Have A Question, Need Some Help, or Just Have Something to Say EMAIL US at content@hotrodhotline.com

 

I was trying to track down the current owner of a 64 Nova pro street that i sold to a fellow from Manchester KY about 20 yrs ago. The nova was Med. Blue , small bock , four speed, with weld Pro Stars. The guy that bought it lived across from a Body shop and owned a 55 Chevy Pro Street . He bought mine to drive because his 55 was more of a Show/Trailered type car with a chrome rear end etc. Any help would be apprieciated. I'd love to know what has become of the car and talk with the current or latest owner. Thanks Steve Akker - steveakker@hotmail.com

 

1937 Chevy headlight reflectors

Has anyone tried the ‘37 Chevy headlight reflectors with Halogen lamps from I&I Reproductions? Do they fit ok and do they make a big improvement? Barry Herbert - b.herbert@sympatico.ca

 

I have put a 428 Shelby in a '71 Ranchero. The Shelby used all the engine compartment. I had to convert it to manual steering because the hydraulic cylinder was in the way. Also, I have no room for a standard vacuum booster for the brakes.

Question 1: What would be the best approach to get it back to power steering?

Question 2: How well do electric brake boosters work?

Eldon Westenburg - eldonw@portablemudsystems.com

 

I bought a chopped and channeled 1933 Ford Pickup, but at 6' 3", I can't get in the truck. Are there small/lower seats that I can buy that will fit in this truck? Eldon Westenburg - eldonw@portablemudsystems.com

I have a '41 Ford that has a 350 Chevy engine with a 350 auto trans. My problem is trying to identify the engine year. I was told that it is a marine engine. The engine number is 1M12216636 or 1M12216G36. Can anyone help me identify the year model? Thanks. Rick Pennington - penningd@verizon.net (June 30, 2014)

I need help locating aviation gauges for a restoration on the car shown in the photo. Anybody out there have a suggestion on who can help? Matt Jones - matteo@reoriginals.com (June 27, 2014)

 

I've been working on a 1938 ford truck. I had someone build an engine for it. Instead of the one that was in the truck when we got it he built a newer, (late 40's mercury) engine. After making a lot of adaptions and finally getting it all hooked up and running it overheats. The engine seems to run good and when moving down the road seems to be fine however when stopped and idling or moving slow overheats. This is a parade truck the company I work for purchased and therefore obviously worthless at this point because of the time of year and nature of a slow moving parade. I believe the engine was bored .030 and I know one of the heads was milled though I'm not sure how much. I have installed manual guages in both heads and they read the same. We have installed a new radiator, water pumps, thermostats and 18" electric blower fan in front of the radiator because the engine driven wouldn't work with this setup. The block and heads were supposedly hot tanked and cleaned. We also used the old ignition system instead of the newer distributor. I don't know if that would make a difference. We've tried to adjust the timing and have ran it with thermostats in and out and nothing seems to make a difference. I would really appreciate any help or advice I could get at this point. Thanks, Tony Thompson tthompson@mleainc.com (August 7, 2013)

I used brake dust cleaner and it removed the Corvette logo off the calipers. Should I paint them back on? And how do I clean the brake dust without losing the painted logos? - Derrick derrickpressley@yahoo.com (July 31, 2013)

Do you know of any setup that will replace the front axle of an international 1100 pickup...It's a 1967 model...1/2 ton. Any springs, axles, spindles, etc.. I would like to keep the original style straight axle. Thanks cabinflatskustoms@att.net (July 12, 2013)

Hi I’m sending you a picture (Click Here For Image) I bought at the Street Rod Nationals in KY in 2009. It is in rodding and restyling January 1957 issue on page 14. You guys have been around the block a few times and I thought you might have seen this truck. I think it’s from the East Bay in California. Any info on this 29 Roadster Pickup would be great thank Tim TLM1929@aol.com (June 27, 2013)


I have an LS3 in my 30 Ford Coupe and a factory drive by wire gas pedal. After one or two seconds of WOT, the pedal shuts off and the engine drops to an idle until I shut the car off for 10-20 seconds and restart. In case it matters, the transmission is a 4L65E.  Ed Dahl eddahl@fishaxe.com (June 4, 2013)

Will The V6 Motor From A Mustang Fit In A F150 Truck 1997 Model It Has A Manual Transmission 5 Speed If Not What Upgrades Can You Do On The Existing V6. Thank You. andysr2003@yahoo.com (June 4, 2013)

Fellow Car Hobbits: I have the need to purchase a 8BA-8509-B pass side water pump pulley that I have tried all the old car company's I can think of with no luck. If any on your staff could lead me to other company's I would be very appreciative. I have a 41 Ford conv. with a 50 Ford engine lying dead in the garage because of this pulley. Love your newsletters as they have given me many hours of pleasure reading them and attaining all the other parts needed to resurrect this car.  Kenneth E. Groth Sr. kennethgroth75@gmail.com (May 20, 2013)

I have a glass '34 Ford Cabriolet with a MII front suspension.  When I drive between 45-55 mph I get a vibration in the front end.  I have had the tires force balanced, new steel rims which are not bent etc.  At speeds over 55 mph the vibration lessens or goes away.  Front suspension appears tight.  Car has been on the road for 20 years.  Any thoughts appreciated.  William Ritter tex34ford@windstream.net (May 14, 2013)

I have a situation “no one” can explain or resolve, so far… I realize this is unlikely to be of value to 99.9% of your readers but I beg your indulgence.
I traded my roll-away for a desk 13 years ago and I like to think of myself as a decent automotive technician, former ASE Master Auto Tech, Med/Hvy Duty truck certs FORD & GM trained, Calif licensed Brake, Lamp and SMOG inspector / Tech. I made a good living at it last as a local Fleet Manager for a nationwide ambulance provider. I won’t say I’ve seen it all… but I’ve seen a lot in the past 40+ years of wrenching…

Here’s my situation:

·       1979 Jeep CJ-7 w/ a whopping 1 ½ inch lift by RANCHO suspension since in my possession
·       AMC 401 V8 swapped in to replace AMC 304 in late 80’s
·       Later converted to AMC Turbo 400 w/original CJ transfer case (DANA 20 I believe, not Quadratrac)
·       Currie 9” FORD rear end w/Trac-lock diff (as I recall… one step below a Detriot locker)
·       16 miles per day average distance driven, surface streets only now. Hasn’t seen dirt or a freeway in 15 years.
·       Yes… I am a bit of a stop light racer… aka lead foot
·       2 ½ years ago the trans needed to be rebuilt, mild shift kit. Smoother than what was in it… bummer…
·       EVERY 6 months or less I lose ONE side of ONLY the U-joint clamped in the yoke of rear end (not the shaft).
·       I’ve replaced the joints myself… mallet & drift procedure or ball joint press as time and mood dictate.
·       I’ve also had “professionals” replace and build new drive shafts
·       Pinion angle is within the prescribed 1 degree using a Kent-Moore inclinometer
·       Motor, trans and transfer case are square to the vehicle. NO “adapters” were used in the conversions. I sought out O.E. AMC / Jeep parts to mount part time transfer case to trans.
·       I have -2- shafts, one stock Jeep at both ends using a combo U-joint ½ Jeep, ½ FORD for the rear end as supplied by Currie initially. The other shaft is Jeep on one end, FORD on the other. Both fail equally…
·       The “combo” shaft served well for a number of years. After having to wait to have the odd ball combo U-joint ordered I had the second shaft built to use more commonly available U-joints. It was in service for a few years until the trans re-build.
·       I’ve used Spicer, Dana, Precision, brand-X re-box…
·       My vehicle maintenance methods haven’t changed in the past 15 years, or more…

Here’s my dilemma…. WHY only the ONE cup failing and WHAT can cause it so I can repair it? When it does it’s quick. I heard the all too familiar very faint “klink klink klink” as I pulled out of my garage this morning… within 8 easy miles it was massage time it was shaking so bad.
I have actually, as a test, left the front U-joints in the shafts through multiple rear failures… in “emergencies” such as getting home tonight, I’ll use the cup and bearings from the second shaft non-failed side to get me home. Current Spicer joints were installed by the guys at what used to be DriveLine Specialty in Whittier Ca.
I attached a couple of photos… as you can see the “good” side isn’t perfect but this is typical (I wiped the grease off the trunion for the photo)… the “bad” side is typical as well, black dust. When installing the joints I pack grease in each cup and when installed I lube until I see grease coming out each cup. Doug McEachern  Doug.McEachern@leader-ambulance.com (May 13, 2013)


Looking for instruction manual for Kwiklift. Does anyone have an e-copy? Kind regards, HR Hans.Ransom@dsm.com (May 7, 2013)

I am trying to get disc and drum brakes to work with out power not having much luck doing it . My pedal is a 4 to 1 but I have been told it will work . My pedal is very hard to push, I have a proportioning valve  I think is from a 68-72 nova. A friend of mine told me to take the proportioning valve off and throw it away.  I will be very thankful for any help I can get. You can contact me; Lonnie, ltcarney@net.ins.net (May 6, 2013)  

I have a 63 corvette 4-speed, there is a vibration and thumping noise coming from the rear end, any suggestions to what the problem may be ? Thanks, Jack jackwise60@gmail.com (March 18, 2013)

Please help! I am trying to have a custom built hood ornament made for my guys "one of a kind" custom car. Attached are pictures of it, along with a site that shows a better pic of his car here: http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Archives/Archive-000002/HTML/20060221-8... I'm looking to have a radically made dragon as the hood ornament with the understanding that it may be pretty costly. I'd love to have it created by his birthday (4/23) as a surprise. So far I'm not having any luck finding anyone who can do this. Please respond as soon as possible. I'm sending this message out to as many car sites as I can, hoping to find someone talented enough to take on this project. I can be reached through the information listed below. Even if someone can point in the right direction it would be much appreciated! Sincerely, Mona Bram moodymona@yahoo.com (March 1, 2013)

Looking for a shop to repair a 35 Ford Truck grille, straightening and a few teeth replacement, Thank you Rod rdbojechko@gmail.com (February 12, 2013)

My son and I are building a 302 for his Maverick. He is 16 and for his first car he wants an old school tunnel ram big cam. My question is what cam do we pick. He wants a nice rumble. The motor only has 2500 miles since I rebuilt it 10 years ago. It is virtually stock, we have a 2 4 tunnel ram with 2 Holley 450 ready and a 3000 stall converter. Can you help, Thanks Dave. My email oldschoolflh@gmail.com (February 5, 2013)

GENTLEMEN, I have a 30 Ford Model A with a 302 Ford engine older model. I have an oil leak up front and was told it might be the front crank seal. Question is how big of a job is it I am a retired jeweler but fair with my hands. Should I get to a mechanic or a Ford dealer?    Trust your option, Dean deanbenton@comcast.net (February 4, 2013)

I have a 32 Roadster kit with frame, but it is an older reproduction.  Any Idea what I have?  It came from California.  Cycle type front fenders with wimpy little running boars and cowl cover with custom windshield frame.  Thanks, Mike Olson; Dallas, Or   503-409-0255 mrmocrabbing@gmail.com (January 23, 2013)

 


During the late 60’s through early 70’s there was a West Coast trailer maker named Bowlus, located – I believe – in Sun Valley (LA area). Though best known fro travel trailers, they also decided to build racecar trailers that became quite popular with leading names of that day. John Mitchell bought the company and continued making racecar trailers into the 80’s.  My current assignment calls for me to value a restored/remade Bowlus racecar trailer.  Would very much appreciate hearing from anyone who owns such a trailer.  Thank you. Jon Lundberg  Email to: jon@apraizr.com (December 31, 2012)


I just bought a '32 Ford with an Ididit column and it's a snap harness. I have the instruction manual for both but can not trace the issue which is the turn signals won't work. They appear to be properly wired and the 4 way flashers work as well as the parking lights When you engage the turn signal the dash indicator blinks once then goes off, the signals do not attempt to blink at any corner. Thought it may be a bad flasher but wanted a second opinion. Thanks, Terry vette62@bellsouth.net (December 19, 2012)

I recently purchased a used Kwik Lift. The only thing I did not get with it is the owners manual. Is there any way to purchase a manual? Thanks, George Adams griz_wp@tds.net (December 7, 2012)

I am an owner of a 1989 Ford F-150 with a 302 cubic inch 5.0 liter engine.  This truck currently has an electronic fuel injected motor. With that being said I was thinking of converting this motor from electronic fuel injection to carburetion. My question for you is that being a resident of the state of New Jersey I was wondering what laws and specifications I would have to abide by in order for this motor to pass state inspection.  Also I would like to know what I basically would have to do to the moor just to have it run properly being converted over from fuel injection to carburetion. If you could answer this question for me I would greatly appreciate it. phillies08@verizon.net (November 12, 2012)

Good evening -- I've got a 47 Buick super Sedanette with a heating problem – Every time I drive it, it burns the daylights out of my feet -- My local Urgent care is getting tired of seeing me and the feeling's mutual. I'm just about at the point where I'm about ready to give up and get rid of it, but I'd rather not do so -- I've got soo much $$$ into it -- I'd rather try and find out why. I've tried everything I know to identify the source of the heat -- Tried using Dynamat -- When that didn't work - I called Dynamat they told me to purchase Dyna Liner - and no luck.   The engine is operating at 150 deg F.  Installed a insulating wrap just south of the exhaust manifold and still nothing changed. Had the exhaust manifold powder coated -- and once again nothing changed. Looked and inspected the firewall - (inside and out) in search for any holes - couldn't find any. Car used to have a battery box underneath where the passenger seat is located  -- relocated the battery to the trunk and welded the vacant hole and insulated it -- It's now covered with dyna liner - and dynamat -- approx 4 layers.  The few times I took the car out it burned my feet, but my wife reports that her side of the car is ok -- I press hard on the dynamat/dynaliner and I can feel the heat.  Any suggestions - before I give up ???  Burl Cohen bcohen2@earthlink.net (November 8, 2012)

I am having a problem finding the right seats ( 2) for my 39 Ford Standard coupe...  anyone have any recommendations as to what cool looking buckets will fit  (22 inches across each seat) in a light beige leather color, or if you know where I can find a stock bench seat, it would be appreciated. Gerry  tsg1@shaw.ca (October 29, 2012)


I am putting 2002 Cadillac Eldorado power bucket seats in my Street Rod. I need to know how to get around the drivers side memory function interlock. Thank You fast4wrd@cogeco.ca (October 15, 2012)

First and foremost, GREAT web site!! My son and I are working together on a basket case 1983 Ford Mustang. The vehicle was started by someone else and we are in the process of ripping out several "bad" attempts at building this car. We have a lot of the car together and running quite well with one major issue, after installing a new battery, alternator and a voltage regulator we are still not charging the battery. Every part is stock from that year. I am thinking with, as much damage that has been done to the original harness is there a way to cheat the system and wire it direct to the battery for the charging aspect. Thanks for your help Briam and Corey McFadden  bmcfad7986@zoominternet.net (October 1, 2012)

I have an inquiry about Al Barns. Al Barns was a member of the Albata Racing Club of Los Angeles in the late 1940s and early 1950s. My question: Is this the same Al Barns who was a cam grinder for Howard Cams in L.A. during the 1950s? And is he still around? I would really like to hear anything about Al Barns of the racing scene in L.A. Thanks, Roger Harrell, rhharrell@aol.com. (September 24, 2012)

My '62 Vette speedometer bounces after about 30 miles and hour. The needle oscillates up and down about 20 MPH and is not rhythmic. Am I looking at a worn inner cable here? Many thanks! Bob Podstawski  bobp8@optonline.net (September 21, 2012)

I am buying a 34 Chevy Coupe. I have been trying to find someone who sells a car cover for it. It is chopped and is fiberglass can you direct me to someone. California Cover say they do not have one. It will be in the garage but I still would like a cover. Thanks for your time  ...  Charlie Olvis ...  sunup1001@gmail.com  (September 10, 2012)

I'm looking for 4 point harness racing seats for a 75 Corvette Stingray. Cypher racing seats said they had a set, but they were to big. Had to send them back. I hope you guys can help me find a set. I love your mag and You Tube show. Any help you can give would be awesome.  Joe Johnson vetjoe75@aol.com (September 7, 2012) 

I have an Outlaw Performance '33 Ford. Car is almost complete. One of the last problems to work out is the braking. Running power brakes. Power brake booster is attached to the floor mounted master cylinder (1 1/8" bore). Approx 16-18 inches of vacuum at idle. Using a GM performance ZZ4 Fastburn crate motor. 350 block, 385 hp. The brakes don't feel like they're stopping with enough power. The car doesn't feel like it wants to stop properly. Also have a vacuum reserve tank that I installed but haven't hooked up yet. Could this be a vacuum problem or should I seek the problem from somewhere else? Please help.  Thank You, Marty 1933 Ford Coupe New Jersey martian51@comcast.net (September 4, 2012)

Hi guys, I have a 1967 Firebird with the 400 engine. I’m pretty certain it is all original but I can’t figure out how to get the rocker covers off without taking the engine out. It clashes with the air con on the right and the wiper motor/brake booster on the right. Is there a trick to this or is that just the way it is? It’s a bugger to have to take the engine out to set the valves.   Regards, Gavin Davy Tasman Tyres  info@tasmantyres.co.nz  (September 4, 2012)

How can I stop the noise, if I spray the bushings with graphite it stops it for a week or two. Does any one have a better solution.  Larry Roemer roemer.larry@live.com (August 28, 2012)

Hi guys, maybe you guys can help me. I purchased the universal wiper kit for my 1953 Chevy truck from It's A Snap Wire & Cable.  I installed the kit myself and checked it out to see how it would perform. Everything seemed to be operating ok. But after putting on the wiper arm and blade on the driver side first the wiper arm does not move. I looked at the other tower or spindle to see if it was moving back and forth and it was not. After further test I come to the conclusion that the pressure applied by the wiper arm is too much for the kit to handle. When I turn on the system I have water being applied to the windshield but the wiper does not move. I can pull the wiper away from the windshield or take the arm off the spline and it moves back and forth. Any suggestions before I look at modifying with linkage in place on the cable. I do have the motor mounted to the firewall. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.  David Vick  david.vick@magnetimarelli.com (July 10, 2012)

I'm working on a '34 Ford Coupe.  I have seen a few cars (and one awesome truck) that had vinyl on the floor instead of carpet.  I really like how the vinyl looked on the floor and I’m considering doing the same on my coupe build.  My car is fiberglass so the floor shell is also fiberglass.  I plan on putting down Dyna-mat extreme and then dyna-liner on top of that to insulate the car.  Are there any particular things that need to be considered when wanting to use vinyl on the floor instead of carpet?  I would appreciate any insight anyone has on this subject.  Thanks, Bill Barwinski billski@columbus.rr.com (June 26, 2012)

I’m converting my filament bulbs on my 1940 Chevy coupe to 1157 LEDS. Installed an electronic heavy-duty flasher.  Directional signal will flash what do you recommend?  Thank you.  Al at alchevyputrk@power-net.net (June 25, 2012)

I was told that Mopar Rallye Wheels off a V8 car will not fit a Slant 6 car... Are the lugs different for a slant 6 car and a V8 car?  Thanks, Jim voteforpedro@triad.rr.com (June 25, 2012)

I am looking at installing Mustang II components into a Triumph TR6 and need to find the dimension between the lower A arm pivot point and the outer hub/ rotor. I will try to do this by keeping everything within the original fender wells. My max outside tire wall to outside tire wall is 57 1/2". Reverse calculating gets to be confusing. Thanks for your helpful info. Bob bobspence1@comcast.net (June 7, 2012)

Does anyone know what happened to Haneline (auto gauges)? The electric speedometer in my '32 Ford suddenly quit working after 3 yrs. Can't contact them for a diagnosis procedure or troubleshooting guide.... Any suggestions on repairing / replacing components? Don't want to replace a complete 3 piece 3-3/8 quad gauge package! Ken Smith wh32ford@msn.com      610-486-0317 home (June 5, 2012)

I have a modified 1959 ford 100 with 1989 Lincoln power train, complete wiring harness with steering Colum,. Problem is, I had to mount wiper motor upside down. Now run and park are in wrong position. Can I rectify this problem? Thanks Gary valor@telus.net (June 1, 2012)